Bis Hajari Tal

Bis Hajari Tal means "twenty thousand lakes". We'll be honest: nobody has counted quite that many. But the name paints a fair picture of the place, a maze of ponds, marshes and oxbow lakes tucked away in the Barandabhar forest, the green belt that runs north to south through Chitwan district between Bharatpur and the national park.

The wetland covers about 32 km², and in 2003 it was listed as a Ramsar wetland of international importance, under the name "Beeshazar and Associated Lakes". It's one of the largest natural wetlands in Nepal.

Why it matters

Barandabhar links the lowland forests of Chitwan with the hills to the north. Animals use it as a corridor to travel between the two, and in the dry season the lakes are a vital source of water for many of them. Tiger, rhino, sloth bear and smooth-coated otter have all been recorded here, although on a walk you're far more likely to meet deer, monkeys and, above all, birds.

Birds

The lakes are best known for their birdlife. Keep an eye out for:

• Herons, egrets, storks and cormorants around the water.
• Ducks in winter, including the ruddy shelduck.
• Kingfishers, among them the large stork-billed kingfisher.
• Pallas's fish eagle and other birds of prey over the open water.
• Hornbills and woodpeckers in the forest.

When to go

• November to February: the most birds, winter visitors included. Mornings can be foggy until around 9:00.
• March to May: hot, with lower water and good views along the edges of the lakes.
• June to September: lush and full, but expect leeches on the trails and some paths under water.

Visiting

The lakes lie in a protected forest, so go with a licensed local guide, stick to the trails and keep your voice down. Mugger crocodiles live in the lakes, so stay well back from the water's edge. Our Bis Hajari Tal morning walk sets off from Bharatpur.